As I walked towards the Abbey Library of St. Gallen, the quietness of the early morning surrounded me. This silence was a sharp contrast to the lively city that would soon come to life. The church bells, which usually announce the time, were silent, allowing the impressive architecture of the abbey to be the main focus. Here stood a magnificent building, a symbol of centuries of faith and learning, with its tall spires and beautifully arched windows inviting visitors to explore. This was not just a building; it was a place of knowledge, where faith and intellect came together in a relationship that has existed for ages.
When I entered, I was welcomed by Albert Holenstein, a historian whose love for the library was clear. He led me down a corridor that seemed to echo with history, taking us to a beautifully decorated Baroque doorway. Beyond this door was a dimly lit room, its windows covered with heavy curtains, creating a feeling that was both sacred and secretive. Above the entrance, a Rococo pediment had an inscription in Greek: "Psyches Iatreion," which means "Healing place of the soul." I would later learn that this phrase connected the library to the ancient writing room of King Ramses II in Thebes, Egypt, suggesting a long history of knowledge that goes beyond time and place.
Imagine, if you can, the most amazing library you can think of. Maybe it looks like the grand halls of Bodley’s Library from Philip Pullman’s His Dark Materials, or perhaps it reminds you of the magical atmosphere of Hogwarts’ library from J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter. The Abbey Library of St. Gallen, with its detailed woodwork and high shelves filled with leather-bound books, captures the spirit of these literary dreams. It is one of the best-preserved Baroque libraries in the world and is a treasure within Switzerland’s oldest and largest monastery library, admired throughout Europe as a center of intellectual heritage.
As I stepped inside, I was immediately amazed by the beautiful ceiling paintings that decorated the room, surrounded by celestial and earthly globes, Egyptian artifacts, and cabinets full of curiosities. Each item had a story to tell, from silver knives covered in leather from Turkey to tiny shoes from Indonesia, not to mention fossils and coins collected from distant lands. Holenstein, who is the director of the Centre of Ecclesiastical Cultural Heritage, talked about the richness of the collection, which includes not only religious texts but also works on law, music, medicine, astronomy, and poetry. “It is a rich source of knowledge,” he said, highlighting the library’s role as both a religious institution and an educational treasure.
The history of the library is as fascinating as its collection. Its origins go back to the early 7th century when Saint Gall, an Irish missionary, founded a hermitage on this very site. Although the original library was replaced in 1767 by the current Baroque hall, the continuity of knowledge preserved here is remarkable. Today, the library holds an incredible collection of written heritage, including 160,000 manuscripts and early printed works, among which are over 2,100 medieval codices, with nearly 400 dating back to before the year 1000. This collection includes the largest number of Irish manuscripts on the European mainland, brought to St. Gallen by pilgrims traveling to Rome, who left offerings at the tomb of St. Gall.
Equally important is the archive of Old High German manuscripts, which preserves some of the earliest examples of the language. Each book in this library carries its own story, together illustrating the significant impact of the written word on human experience. Holenstein pointed out that the library’s survival through centuries of conflict—religious and political upheaval—speaks volumes about its importance. While many libraries in England, Wales, and Ireland were destroyed during the reign of Henry VIII, and church properties were taken during the French Revolution, the librarians at St. Gallen showed remarkable foresight, protecting their collection during difficult times.
“St. Gallen has indeed been fortunate,” Holenstein said, noting that many original manuscripts remain in the same place where they were written, studied, and preserved for thousands of years. The library is not just a collection of books; it is a living testament to the survival of knowledge in the face of challenges.
However, the Abbey Library of St. Gallen is not the only impressive library. Switzerland has other remarkable libraries, such as the one at Einsiedeln, located in a 10th-century Benedictine monastery, and the Melk Abbey Library overlooking the Danube River, both of which reflect the Baroque beauty found in St. Gallen. Meanwhile, the title of the world’s largest monastic library belongs to Admont Abbey in Styria, which has over 70,000 volumes. Each of these libraries offers a unique look into the past, but St. Gallen’s library stands out not only for its size but for its rich history and the stories it continues to tell.
As I strolled through the pedestrian-friendly Old Town surrounding the abbey, I was struck by the living museum that unfolded before me. Cobblestone streets and charming taverns, once visited by monks and pilgrims, now remind us of the area’s rich history. Among these, the Michelin-starred Zum Goldenen Schäfli, located in a former butcher’s guildhall, offers a dining experience filled with history. Other places, like Wirtschaft zur alten Post and Weinstube zum Bäumli, reflect the medieval charm that fills the region.
Beyond the town center, the Drei Weieren lakes, created by the monastery in the 17th century, now provide a peaceful retreat for swimmers, complete with Art Nouveau bathhouses situated on a plateau above the city. Today, around 190,000 visitors come to the abbey library each year, a sharp contrast to the decreasing number of religious pilgrims. This shift towards tourism has become crucial for the library’s maintenance, a reality seen in the gift shop’s offerings, which include locally made cheese fondue and artisanal beer.
Does this commercialization threaten the library’s essence? Holenstein takes a practical view, recognizing the natural tension between spiritual and secular life within an active monastery. “Monasteries are, by nature, restrictive places,” he explained. “Yet many are struggling, and tourism offers a practical solution for maintaining these cultural institutions.” However, the library has a unique rule for visitors: to protect its polished wooden floors, guests must wear felt slippers, with only 100 pairs available at any time.
In a time dominated by digital media, the Abbey Library of St. Gallen serves as a powerful reminder of the lasting importance of the written word. Amidst the noise of artificial intelligence, e-books, and online archives, this ancient abbey invites you to enter a world of knowledge and history. It is a place where the voices of the past continue to speak to us today, reminding us of the deep connection between humanity and the written word. This sanctuary for the soul stands as a testament to the lasting legacy of knowledge, a heavenly place where the past and present meet.